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Whenever curating a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has made the family completely astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their small place securing such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary achievement.